Grand Slam 3/Grand Slam 3.iso/047/lotusfq4.arj/FAQ-0134.TXT

Text File | 1995-03-22 | 21KB | 457 lines

Last-modified: Mon Mar 20 10:38:18 PST 1995 by [e-mail]
Archive-name: autos/lotus-cars-faq/lotus-owners
Version: 1.06
Posting-Frequency: monthly

                              Lotus Cars FAQ

                               Version 1.06


        This is part 4 of the FAQ for Lotus Cars.  As with most FAQs,
        this is a list of questions that are frequently asked, in this
        case about Lotus Cars.  Alan F. Perry ([e-mail]) wrote
        the first version of this document and is currently maintaining
        it.  Send mail to [e-mail] for questions or updates.

        Special thanks to Mike Causer, Patrick Peal of Group Lotus,
        K.C. Babb, Bob Bandera, Bill Castellano, Noel Chiappa, Phil
        Ethier, Jon Fairhurst, Doug Fraser, Mike Galos, Andrew Huang,
        Ken Landaiche, John O'Connor, Ian Peters, Michael Sands and
        Dave Van Horn for their help in preparing this FAQ.

        NOTE: This document was created and maintained by owners and
        enthusiasts of Lotus-built or -inspired vehicles and is not in
        any way connected with Group Lotus Limited, Team Lotus Limited,
        Lotus Cars USA or any other subsidiaries or related companies.

Questions:

A. General Questions
   A1. Who makes Lotuses?
   A2. Who owns Lotus?
   A3. What is the history of Lotus?
   A4. Who was Colin Chapman?
   A5. What is the relationship between Lotus Cars, the road car company,
       and Team Lotus, the Formula One racing team?
   A6. Why are the cars called "Lotus"?
   A7. Where were/are Lotuses built?
   A8. What films and television series have featured Lotus cars?
   A9. What books are available about Lotus?
   A10.How can I contact a Lotus Car club in my area?
   A11.What Internet resources are available on Lotus cars?
   A12.Who has the Lotus Cars Mailing List map of England?
   A13.What is the plural form of "Lotus"?
B. Group Lotus/Lotus Cars Questions
   B1. How can I contact Lotus Cars?
   B2. What does Group Lotus currently sell?
   B3. What kind of Lotus might I see on the street?
   B4. Why were Lotuses sold as kits?
   B5. Is the DeLorean a Lotus?
   B6. Is the Jensen-Healey a Lotus?
   B7. Is the first-generation Toyota MR2 a Lotus?
   B8. Is the Corvette ZR-1 a Lotus?
   B9. Is the [insert car name here] a Lotus?
   B10.Is Lotus making bicycles?
C. Team Lotus Questions
   C1. How can I contact Team Lotus?
   C2. How well has Team Lotus done in Formula One?
   C3. Has Team Lotus won more Constructor's Cups than Ferrari?
   C4. What famous names are associated with Team Lotus?
   C5. Were Nigel Mansell and Mario Andretti ever teammates at Team Lotus?
   C6. Who have been major sponsors of the Team Lotus?
   C7. Who is currently sponsoring Team Lotus?
   C8. What is Classic Team Lotus?
D. Questions About Owning A Lotus
   D1. What should I pay for a Lotus/What is my Lotus worth?
   D2. Where can I get parts for my Lotus?
   D3. What problems might I expect from a Seven?
   D4. What problems might I expect from a Type 14 Elite?
   D5. What problems might I expect from an Elan?
   D6. What problems might I expect from a Plus 2?
   D7. What problems might I expect from a Renault-Europa?
   D8. What problems might I expect from a TwinCam-engined Europa?
   D9. What problems might I expect from a Elite/Eclat?
   D10.What problems might I expect from a Esprit S1/S2?
   D11.What problems might I expect from a Turbo Esprit?
   D12.What problems might I expect from a Excel?
   D13.What problems might I expect from a M100 Elan?
   D14.What Renault engines can be used in a Europa-Renault (S1/S2)?


D. Questions About Owning A Lotus
=================================

D1. What should I pay for a Lotus/What is my Lotus worth?

    This can vary so much that it is difficult to give an accurate
    response.  At the high end, I saw a gutted 1967 Europa S1 with
    only a pile of parts resembling an engine go for $9000 in 1990.
    At the low end, I saw a 1978 Esprit S2 that needed relatively
    simple repairs go for $3000 in 1994.

    To get an idea what a particular Lotus model might be selling
    for, check out the classified section of one of the better Lotus
    club newsletters like Lotus Ltd's ReMarque or a magazine like
    Hemming's Motor News or Autoweek.


D2. Where can I get parts for my Lotus?

    Most Lotus parts are still available from a Lotus dealer, though,
    in the U.S., they probably have to special order everything.
    There are also a number of other places to get parts from.

    We are currently working on a reasonably comprehensive suppliers
    list for Lotus and it will be put in the Lotus Cars Mailing List
    FTP area when it is ready.


D3. What problems might I expect from a Seven?

    From Michael Sands ([e-mail]):
      The Seven really is a toy and should never be considered for regular
      transportation.  This is true for a number of reasons.

      The open nature of the car is very appealing.  You feel one with the road
      and the wind.  That is true for the first fifteen minutes.  After that the
      quaint way the wind distorts your face, the rocks pile up in your lap, and
      the vibration grinds your teeth wears on you and you look for a reason to
      stop.  This car cannot be beat if you want performance and road feel. This
      car is purpose built and is a street legal race car!

      The car is extremely small.  My 1986 Caterham weighs 1250 pounds, with me
      sitting in it.  The only way to achieve such a light weight is to leave
      many components off the car and to make the ones you put on it very light.
      The car has no doors, for example.  The seats are mere cushions resting on
      the floor and leaning against the back.

      The frame is very light and minimal.  This is a key area to inspect.  Look
      especially at the point where the trailing arms mount to the frame for the
      rear axle.

      The front suspension is also suspect.  I urge you convert the anti-sway bar
      to an independent bar, and not have it act as the front upper A arm member.
      The bar has a tendency to break right at the pillow block, leaving you
      with no steering.

      Also look at the rear axle for cracks.  You must have the live axle
      reinforced with the large metal plate, going from one wheel to the other.
      The latest Caterhams have the de Dion rear axle from the Sierra and do not
      have problems in this area, however they do not handle as well apparently.

      The Kent engine is extremely reliable, a real work horse, still in use
      today as an auxiliary power plant.  There are large numbers of components
      available because it is basically the same as used in Formula Ford racing.


D4. What problems might I expect from a Type 14 Elite?

    From Mike Causer ([e-mail]):
      - Everything vibrates off, including the rear suspension!  If
        you get one dismantle it totaly and Loctite it all together.
      - Noisy as the front row of a heavy metal concert (not that
        I've been to one ;-).
      - Parts can be hard to find.
      - Good to drive though, if a bit underpowered by modern standards.


D5. What problems might I expect from an Elan?

    From Bob Bandera ([e-mail]):
      One common Elan problem, actually a 1558 TC problem, is the water
      pump.  I have replaced mine twice within 20,000 miles - the first
      time because the bearing was going and the second time for insurance
      since the motor was out of the car.  I have heard that they can fail
      within 20k miles.  Overly tight fan belt is an obvious error given
      the royal pain it is replacing the water pump.

      TCs nearly always leak oil - some typical areas are easily fixed;
      the two that I see as difficult are the front timing cover and the
      rear rope seal (early motors with 4 bolt cranks)

    From Karen C. Babb ([e-mail]):
      Chronic original Elan problem areas:
      - rotoflex couplings (check often, replace @25K mile interevals)
      - inboard and outboard stub axles, if you race the car at all
      - plastic clutch line melting against Sprint headers => fire
      - water pump
      - frame cracks around engine mounts, rear suspension attachments,
        diff


D6. What problems might I expect from a Plus 2?

    From Ian Peters ([e-mail]):
      These cars are very reliable if maintaned correctly.
      Chassis rust in "rusty" countries.
      Chassis fall apart at high mileage if the suspension is not
      maintained. (shocks especially)
      Handbrake linkages and calipers require constant attention to stay
      merely innefective.
      Rotoflex couplings should be sprint spec.
      The alarm switch in the glove box is invariably faulty and
      causes tacho failure/intermittant and various ignition maladies.
      Later cars with alternators can eat water pumps.
      Corrosion in cylinder head if proper coolants not used.
      Stub axles break on cars sprinted or raced
      Broken rotoflexes can break calipers off or damage rear suspension
      5 speed gearboxes painfull/expensive to rebuild.
      These cars are seen as less desirable and therefore less valuable
      than an Elan. Some of the backyard engineering used to keep these
      cars running is ghastly. Inspect very thoroughly before purchase.


D7. What problems might I expect from a Renault-Europa?

    From Ken Landaiche (macorp![e-mail]):
      The frame is rusted around the front suspension mounts (worries
      me sometimes).  The car started its US sojourn in Rhode Island.

      The bracket that holds the exhaust fan to the radiator has
      cracked (during a track day at Sears Point). The fan thermostat
      died and was replaced with a switch by Mr PO (Previous Owner).

      The front edge of both seat frames cracked, dropping the seat a
      little and giving me some headroom.  When I repaired them, I
      didn't fit anymore.

      The brake vacuum boosters died and disappeared in the car's early
      history.  I would prefer to have them today.

      (That reminds me of a potentially important theme in buying an
      Europa: many of them have been raced, which is OK, but the
      repairs may not be what you want to live with.)

      The California emissions control pipes and what-not have been
      removed.  This has never been a problem for me though, in getting
      it smog-tested.

      The carburettor air cleaner assembly is gone.  I still haven't
      found something that easily fits.

      Perhaps the worst problem is that if anything is missing from
      the car, it will be so unique that it will be hard or expensive
      to replace.


D8. What problems might I expect from a TwinCam-engined Europa?

    From Dave Van Horn ([e-mail]):
      You should budget for an engine rebuild roughly every 50K miles.
      Certainly the head will need going through by then, since the short
      valve guides wear quickly and start leaking oil into the cylinders.

      The water pump lasts only about 25-30K miles.  The short drive
      belt => high tension => high stress on the pump pulley bearing.


D9. What problems might I expect from a Elite/Eclat?

    None reported.


D10.What problems might I expect from a Esprit S1/S2?

    From Alan Perry ([e-mail]):
      - The rear wheel bearings and u-joints will probably need to
        be replaced at 40,000 miles
      - The cam belts should be replaced at 25,000 miles
      - The exhaust side motor mount often fails


D11. What problems might I expect from a Turbo Esprit?

    From Douglas Fraser ([e-mail]):
      There is the rather serious problem in the '86, '87 (+?) where
      the primary catalytic converter can set fire to the inner
      fender well.

      This happened to me in my '87 after a long, slow drive in a low
      gear up Mt. Washington.  Moderately high engine revs combined
      with very little airflow through the engine compartment.

      This catalyst is the small one that most people don't even know
      is there, about 10" from the turbine discharge.  It gets hot enough
      to ignite the fiberglass right through the heat shield.  Then the
      fiberglass burns between the heat shield and fenderwell where you
      can't get at it unless you happen to have an extinguisher with a
      rubber hose on the discharge.   (Fortunately I did  *whew*)

    From Douglas Fraser ([e-mail]):
      The relays that operate the headlight motors are conveniently
      mounted right where the water running off the hood can soak them.

      It feels a bit silly to be driving this beautiful exotic with one
      headlight going up and down, and up and down, and up and down,
      and up and down, and up and down....   ;-)

    From Jon A. Fairhurst ([e-mail]):
      As I was finishing up a number of maintenance tasks and repairs, my
      last item before getting the Esprit back on the road was to connect
      the tube from the Fuel Injection MCU (mixture control unit) to the
      turbo intake.  While attempting the re-connect, it simply crumbled.
      Right at the turbo connection.  It seems that the heat cycles are too
      much for the material.

      The hose is like a heavy-duty custom-shaped dryer vent hose.  The kind
      with the spiral wire in it to keep it from collapsing.  The only
      difference is that dryer vent hose costs about 15 cents per foot and
      this part costs $460.00.

      From what I can tell, this problem will occur, over time, to every
      instance for this part.  The cracking on my '86 had started before
      I bought the car (30 K mi., Dec '90), and total failure occured at
      40K mi.

      My solution: 3 in. of 2-1/4" radiator hose, two additional hose clamps,
      and a 3" section of 2-1/4" pipe with one end expanded to fit the old
      hose after the dead section was cut off.  I got the pipe made at a
      muffler shop, and the guy only asked "a couple o' bucks" for his work.
      I left a fiver and felt like a big tipper!

      It may not be original but It only cost ten bucks, and should last much
      longer than the original design.

      While this was done on a Bosch injected Turbo, it may also apply to
      the Delco injection as well as the carbureted versions.  The hose is
      a black fabric wrapped, wire-reinforced, rubber/plastic hose, clamped
      to the turbo inlet.  It is critical that this hose have no leaks, or
      your injection calibration will be way off.

      From Noel Chiappa ([e-mail]):

      One major problem is the cars weren't always bolted together well.
      I had an engine mount come loose on my '85, after which we
      retightened every single bolt/nut on the car. Even after that, some
      are loose; the bolt in the console around which the shifter
      bellcrank pivots backed its way out while I was in Utah, causing me
      to disassemble the center console in the hotel parking lot (the
      nearest Lotus dealer being about 1000 miles away...)

      Another difficult to find problem was caused when a fuel filter
      inside the fuel tank (there are a pair, behind the B pillars on the
      side) came loose, letting debris into the electric fuel pump,
      seizing it. When this happen, the car loses power, coughs a few
      times, and dies on the spot. Since the pump is above the belly pan,
      you either have to have jackstands, or flat-bed it. I went through
      five or so fuel pumps until I figured out why. Since you can't see
      into the tank... A regular paper filter inline before the pump
      fixed that.


D12.What problems might I expect from a Excel?

    From Mike Causer ([e-mail]):
      - Power steering pump bracket breaks
      - Radiator twists in its mountings under hard cornering and leaks
      - Some people have trouble with overheating in traffic jams - and
        conversely the earlier cars had carb icing problems.
      - Interior materials a bit fragile for family use.
      - Will go on for ever given proper care.


D13.What problems might I expect from a M100 Elan?

    From Mike Causer ([e-mail]):
      - Gearchange cables frequently fail
      - Hood (convertible top) seals leak
      - Accident damage is very expensive to repair
      - Avoid the NA model at all costs - totally gutless
      - Exhaust pipes seem to give trouble
      - Too noisy for high-speed long-distance driving

    From Bill Castellano ([e-mail]):
      As for elan m100 potential problems, i'd add a vote for
      the leakage from the roof seals... :-) and since i'm having
      them checked this monday, the brake proportioning sensors.
      from a severe stop, > 40mph, the brake light warning may appear
      if the bp valves are bad. easy check.


D14.What Renault engines can be used in a Europa-Renault (S1/S2)?

    A 1470cc and a 1565cc version of the Renault R16 were originally
    used in the Europa-Renault.

    As described below, there are other options as well.

    Mark Reichert ([e-mail]) writes:
      John O'Connor ([e-mail]) writes:
      >Other alternative, get the Renault 16 TS engine and gearbox. (You have
      >to reverse the diff of course.) This gives you a crossflow head for
      >which you can get all manner of tuning parts (via the Gordini sources)
      >and a 5 speed box. The block has the same mounts as the original
      >engine and if you want to keep it simple will mate to your current
      >transmission. However, it is worth doing the work to put the 5 speed
      >box in.

    Or, you could use the engine out of an R17. These come in a few
    varieties.  There's the 807, which is a hemi/crossflow head version of
    the 821. I think that this might be the same engine used in the R16TS.
    The block is the same. The pistons are different (to account for the
    changed head). Then there's the 843, which a 1647cc version of the 807.
    Parts are more available for the 843, as Renault used them in the R17,
    R18, and some Fuegos. [I've also seen reference to the 844, which seemed
    to be *the* hot setup, but I've been unable to locate one of these
    engines.]

    Used 843's can be had in the $300 price range. 807's seem to cost a
    little more. They are rarer, and rumor has it that they can be tuned
    better. I don't know that I believe that rumor.

    Both of these engines used Bosch fuel injection at some point, so it's
    available if you want it (like I do). I think the 807's used D-Jet. The
    843's used L-Jet (L-Jet+Lambda in the R18 & Fuego). If you want fuel
    injection, it's best to get the intake plenum off of an R17, as the later
    cars went to longer intake runners which probably won't fit in the S2
    engine bay.

    An 843 will bolt up to your S2's 336 gearbox, but *some* 843 blocks have
    their motor mount points moved, so new brackets need to be fab'd.

    There are also some issues with belts, pulleys, and exhaust on the 843
    that I'd be glad to discuss with anyone whose considering this upgrade.

    I've put an 843 in the S2 that I'm restoring.

    Here's some info on differences among the renault engines:

                    Stock   Europa  Stock  Stock
                     821     821     807    843
                    -----   ------  -----  -----
    Valve Timing
    ------------
    Inlet opens    deg BTDC           10      35      21     24
    Inlet closes   deg ABDC           42      65      59     68
    Exhaust opens  deg BBDC           46      65      59     68
    Exhaust closes deg ATDC           10      35      21     24

    Valve Size (mm)
    ---------------
    Inlet                             35     37.5     40     42*
    Exhaust                           31      31     35.35  35.35

    Compression Ratio                 8.6    10.25  7.6,8.6  9.6

    Static Advance (deg)               0       4       0      4

    * = The Haynes manual lists this as 40mm, the one in *my* 843 was 42mm.

    [Sources: Haynes R16 manual, europa workshop manual]

    Note that the stock 843 has 25% more area for the intake valves, and
    30% more area for the exhaust valves.

    The Haynes R17 manual gives info for 843 valve timing that conflicts with
    what the R16 manual says. I don't remember the exact numbers, but the net
    effect was a duration a few degrees greater than the Europa 821 cam. Also,
    the 844 cam was reported to give an extra 10 degrees duration beyond that
    of the 843.


--
Alan F. Perry
Internet Lotus Cars Mailing List
[e-mail]